Instruction/ maintenance manual of the product 339 Pfaff
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CPFAFFD 339 G.M. PFAFF AG. WERK KARLSRUHE-DURLACH.
- — FOREI1ORD At last you are the owner of this modern light metal Automatic portable sewing machine of advanced functional styling and softly blended colours. It will serve you for all normal sewing and embroidery work that becomes necessary in your home.
Table of Contents This is Your Sewing Machine . Accessories 1. Preparing to Sew Engaging and disengaging the sewing mechanism Motor drive and folding table Needle and thread Exchanging the sewing foot Removing and replacing bobbin and bobbin case Winding the bobbin Upper threading, picking up bobbin thread 2.
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_- This is Your Sewing Machine 1 Thread take-up lever 19 Feed dog 2 Thread guides 20 Sewing foot 3 Bobbin winder tension 21 Sewing foot fastening screw 4 Spool pins 22 Needle clamp 5 Cam control 23 Re.
Iotor Drire The voltage indicated on the motor plate must be the same as that of your power-line (f. I. 220 volts). You will find the motor plate on the underside of the bottom plate. Tilt the machine carefully to the bock. Connect the three-pronged plug 1 to the socket 2 on the back of the machine and plug the line cord 3 into the wall socket.
Folding Table and Table Extension For all normal sewing work and fancy stitching you can raise the folding table to obtain a larger working area to put the material on. All you have to do is lift up the table a little and pull it all the way to the left until its right part is on a level with the free arm.
p Inserti. the Needle The machine requir 5 need/es system 130 R. Need/es of that system are avail able at your sewing machine dealer. Bring the thread takeup /ever to its highest position and /oosen c/amp screw 5 all the Way.
Exchanging the Sewing Foot fabric, ing results. on For medium-weight linen and cotton fabrics you should start with thread No. 60 and a needle No. 80. When working very fine or very thick material first try out on a piece of remnant whether you have chosen the correct needle and thread sze.
h ILdh. 49w.e . v , • N Needle and Thread Table (metric system) Example: You want to work on underwear. On a — — C0 O C C OO the line saying “under- g a o a C G) -o wear” you go to the right — — ° N >- >- a, C C C, ) and find thread size 80 “— ° a a, and above the kind C - OT c C C0 C0 — thread to use.
Removing the Bobbin Case Bring thread take-up ever to its highest position and swing out to the left the cover at the end of the free arm. With thumb and forefinger of your right hand hold the case by its lctch 6. You can now take the bobbin case with the bobbin out to the front.
Winding the llobbin Disengage the sewing mechanism as described on page 7. Now place the spool on the right-hand spool pin, pass the thread through the back thread guide,once clockwise around the tension 7 and to the bobbin on the bobbin winder pin. The small wire on the pin must go into the slot on the underside of the bobbin.
Replacing the Loaded Bobbin 1) Place the bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread unwinds from top towards you .-m (upper photo). 2) Hold the bobbin in the bobbin case arid pass the thread through the t 1 ’recding slot (lower photo left) 3) Draw the thread along and beneath the tension spring and out through the opening in the case.
Bring the thread take-up lever again to its highest position and with thumb and forefinger ho!d the case by its open latch 9 and, with the cut-out on top, slide it onto stud 10. It is best to hold also the loose thread end to prevent it from getting caught between bobbin case and hook.
Place the spool onto the spool pin and pass the thread through the slot in thread guide 11, across the arm of the mcchine to the front, then by the right edge of thread guide 12 and up under its hook through the upper hole and down through the lower hole.
Picking up Bobbin Thread With your left hand hold the end of the upper thread, leaving it a little slack between hand and needle. Then turn the handwheel towards you to allow the thread take-up lever and the needle to travel down once and up again to the highest point.
Fundamentals 2. Sewing - Setting the Machine o When threaded, the machine must never be set in motion without a piece of fabric underneath the sew ing foot. Also remember to tower the foot only with fabric under it as otherwise the foot and the teeth of the feed dog might be damaged.
When starting to sew with the straight stitch, you should follow the instructions given on pages 21 and 22. Make sure par ticularly that you sew at a medium stitch length (setting of stitch length regulator as pictured on page 21) and that the cam control is on straight stitch as pictured on page 23.
Setting the Stitch Length You set the stitch length by the stitch length regulator 17. Turn the screw 18 to the left and set the stitch length as you like it. The shortest stitch is sewn when the regulating lever is in centre position; the longest stitch is a good 3/16” with the lever either in its highest or lowest position.
RI g h t: Scale 22 for adjusting zigzag width with figures 0—4 and adjustment lever 23 which, for straight stitching, must be set on 0 and for zigzag stit ching on one of the other numbers marked on the scale.
You con block the zigzag lever 23 on 0 for straight stitching by tur ning the lock disc 24 also on 0. To limit the width c the zigzag stitch you set the lock disc 24 and the lever 23 on equal numbers. The lever can then only be moved between 0 and the number selected.
Regulating the Thread Tensions After sewing a few inches, examine the stitch ing on both sides of the fabric. The tensions are set correctly if upper and bobbin thread lock in the centre of the cloth. If thin material puckers, both tensions are set too tight.
Regulating the Upper Tension Turning to the right Tension in crecses. Turning to the left Tension de creases. The markings on the tension unit scale will help you remember the correct set ting for nomci sewing whenever you have to change the tension temporarily for special material.
a. Regulating the Pressure on the Sewing Fool There should be just enough pressure on the sewing foot to allow the fabric to move along easy. It is rarely necessary to change the pressure.
3. Tips for Straight Stitching Regular Straight Stitch Work Edge Stitching Quilting Felling Hemming Ruffling and Sewing on Flounces in one Operation Pearl Yarn Embroidery 32 Darning Linen Darning Fine Nylon Stockings Darning Woolen Socks . Other Darning Work 36 Hemstitching with Hem-Twin Needle .
Regular Straight Stitching Foot No. 847496 will serve you for sewing F along edges at a distance of half the width of the foot. Edge StLtch:ng a) with edge stitcher 847602 and guide This foot is used with guide for making wider hems and maintaining an even line of stitching.
b) with flat guide 847484 and thumb screw 183090, standard sewing foot 847495 or straight stitch sewing foot 847496. This guide, too, is used for making wider hems and for maintaining an even line of stitching from the edge of the material. It is particularly suitable for heavy texture materials.
Now insert into the holder Make your first row of stitches, then move the ma- the straight portion of the terial to the right to give the desired spacing be guide, pushing it through the tween the first and second stitch row.
i Fold over to the wrong side the edge of the fabric, making a fold about 1/8” wide. Insert a pin at the commencement of the material and with it draw the edce of the material into the curl of the hemmer, where it is automatically turned under twice.
Now, as you start sewing and same results by placing the curtain and the flounce gathering simultaneausly, let wrong side up. Instead of using the straight stitch the flounce run alonq with the you can also sew with the zigzag stitch, size 2—4, curtain at about 3/8” from the for ruffling and sewing on, in one operation.
Stretch the part to be darned over the hoop, and place the work flat on the bedplate under the needle. Only now draw the under thread up (see page 18) and lower the presser bar lifter. Work the machine at an even rythm and move the hoop steadily to and fro, laying the stitch lines c!cse!y and parallel across the hole.
Pull the stocking over the free arm ond bring the damaged part under the needle. Now place the plastic darning hoop from right under the damaged part of the stock ing and stretch this area by putting the tension ring down into the darning hoop from above (damaged area in the centre of the hoop).
Darning with Needle Plate Coaer Darning Woolen Socks and Hopper Foot If you prefer darning linen and fine stock ings with the needle plate cover 847640, your dealer will be glad to supply it to you. The needle plate cover is placed onto the machine just as the hole embroidery plate (pictured on page 54).
zigzag stitch of 1/32” (scale marking 1) to fasten the meshes. (See page 22 for ,,Sett ing the Zigzag Width), Now pass the darning wool from back to front through the guide slot on the left back edge of the darning foot and place it right into the oval mouth of the foot.
Further Darning Technique8 The free arm is also perfect for darning all tubular clothing. Use again machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. Proceed in the same way as described for darning fine stockings. Here, too, you may use the darning hoop, the needle plate cover, or the Jura hopper foot II.
Refer to page 10 for how to insert the needle. Threading the two needles is done in the same way as described on page 59. Detach the sewing foot. (Lower the folding table if raised.
4. Tips for Zigzag Stitching and Fashion Stitches Page Ordinary zigzag stitching 40 Overcasting, overedging 40 Edge joining 41 Sewing on lace 42 Shell edging 43 Roll hems 43 Buttonholes 44 Sewing on buttons 46 Blindstitching 46 Automatic fashion stitches .
Ordinary Zigzag Stiteliing Standard sewing foot 847495 The machine will sew zigzag stitches up to approxima tely 5/32” wide and about 3/16” long. The settings are made with the zigzag lever and the stitch length regu lator. Overcasting, Overedging Standard sewing foot 847495 We recommend you to use machine embroidery and darning cotton No.
about 1/32” from the edge. Trim close to the line of stitching and finally oversew the material on the right side with zigzag stitches 1/16” to 1/8” wide (scale mark ing 2—3) and 1/32” long. Longstripsofmaterialcanbeoverseamedcon veniently with the edge joiner 847505.
Lace of curved or sharp-cornered design must first be tacked to the material by hand with small stitches before sewing down. A stronger join between fabric and lace is obtained if you sew down the lace with small zigzag stitches (scale marking 1—1.
Shell Edging Stitch width: 3. Stitch ength: medium. Insert the material (fine texture materials) into the roll hemmer as with hemmer 847552 (see page 31 “Hem ing”)- The zigzag stitch encircles the hem, giving a good effect especially when thread of contrasting colour is used.
Butlonlaoles Zigzag width: 2 and 4. Stitch length: almost 0 (see Universal sewing foot 847580 edfe osition: left. Lock disc 24 all the way to the Stand a) Buttonholes with gimp left to indicate buttonhole symbol (see page 22), which thread provides a partial stop at 2 to simplify subsequent Place Upper and bobbin thread: settings.
operations are shown in heavy p H n t) In these sketches the stitches in tentionally are not laid closely together. Actual ly, of course, there must be no spacing between the stitches as shows the picture of the finished buttonhole. The bars, too, be come narrower by holding the material firmly, laying stitches almost one over the other.
Sewing on Buttons Standard sewing foot 847495, universal sewing foot 847580 or button foot 847500 (photo) Drop the feed dog by flicking lever 14 (pictured on page 4) to the left .._J. Place the button on the cloth, lower the presser bar lifter and let the needle pass through the left hole of the button.
Blind Stitch Guide 847830 Method of working: 1) When working with light-weight material, fold the raw edges approximately 3/16” over to the left side. With heavier goods, such as Jersey or woolen goods generally, the raw edne must first be overcast or stoycci before it is Folded over and tacked (see “Overcasting raw edges” on page 40).
Automatic Fashion Stitching Universal sewing foot 847580 Upper thread: mercerized cotton or sew ing silk. First open cover 20 of the Automatic de vice (pictured on page 22) and you will clearly see the double pattern cam moun ted on stud 27.
Changing the Double Pattern C0m8 You wW be able to change the cams only after you have set the cam control 21 on zigzag (as pictured on page 39 cc curve secrc symbol. The cam can now be easily crc’vr, cf r)e stud. Ir is just as easy to slip another cam ecc on.
I I 1 1 C Se S to PJac edo Ove w tf cbE fT rioT. I’ n fl C The patterns ilTustrated here represent oniy some of the many fa shion stitches your ma chine will autornatjcaj ly sew.
By using a twin needle and by sewing with two threads of con- frosting colours simul taneously, the scope of the machine is further increased for particu lars see page 49 Fo shion Stitching with the T.
Universal sewing foot 847580; cam control on zigzag; up per and bobbin thread: machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. 8 9 f Manual Fashion Stitches PatternNo.
Satin Stitch. For upper and bobbin thread use machine embroi dery and darning cotton No. 50. The stitches must be laid close together without visible gaps; it is, therefore, essential to set the stitch length almost to 0 (see also page 21). Upper and bobbin thread: machine embroidery and darning cotton No.
than for normal sewing. Stitch length: almost 0. Now oversew the zigzag stitches along the edge of the appliqué. When using a gimp thread (as with “Cording”), the zigzag width should be 2; without gimp thread, employ zigzag width 3.
j Upper and bobbin thread: machine em broidery and darning cotton No. 50. Zig zag width: 2. Needle position: left. Detach the sewing foot and lower the feed dog.
Patchi:ig Normal sewing foot 847495 When you have to repair large damaged areas, cut the patch square or rectangular as required to cover the hole or worn area. See to it that the threads of the patch are parallel to those of the material to be re paired.
. Piping rhe piping attachment is available upon equest and against reasonable extra :hcrge. It comprises: piping head 847650 machine needles system 1844 5 needles Fl left-hand needle 5 needles Fr ria.
Setting the Distance between Needles The piping head has markings for adjusting to different needle spacings: The lower parts can be adjusted after the two screws on the back of the clamp have been slackened off (right-hand photo).
Threading Place a spool of thread onto each of the two spool pins. Pass both threads together as usual through the two thread guides, then separately around the upper tension cne thread on each side of the centre disc; and through the holes of the thread tche-up lever and again together through the next thread guide.
Raked Piping When working with thin delicate material we recommend you to use a gimp thread (cotton, size suiting the fabric to be sewn). You should also use a aimp thread when sewina dium-wide piping in fairly thick fabric. (Wide piping in thick fabric is done without gimp thread.
When making a s h a r p Piping with. Ordinary Twin Needles corner, you should turn Instead of the piping head 847650 you may also use the work only half way in ordinary twin needles of system 130 R for piping. the new direction, lower These twin needles are inserted into the normal needle the foot and make one clamp as described on page 10.
6. Maintenance Oiling and Cleaning the Machine is essential for smooth, trouble-free ope- You should make it a rule to oil the bear- ration and long machine life. ings of all working parts regularly; oiling intervals depend on how often you use Use only approved sewing machine oil the machine.
It is natural that most of the lint and thread ends settle down in the hook area and in the feed assembly, causing the machine to run noisier. Take out the bob bin case or, respectively, unscrew the needle plate to do the necessary cleaning.
Oiling points in the front part of the arm are accessible after opening the sewlight cover. Before taking off the top cover open always cover 20 of the Automatic de vice see page 22). Take care that you will not damage the bobbin winder as you take off the top cover.
In the photos the oiling points are marked by circles. Of the two oiling points for the hook one is located in the needle plate, the other next to the needle plate behind the sewing foot.
Motor-drive The machine has a belted motor-drive. The belt should never be too tight nor too slack to ensure smooth troublefree action. There should normaly be just a slight give.
Suppression: The motor has a suppression circuit. n p u t : Motor with sewlight about 7 Watts, maximum. e N i n g S p e e d Approximately 1300 stitches p/rn.
7. Cause and Remedy of Faults Remember: Many machine troubles are caused by non-observance of these instructions. In many cases faulty working of your ma dune can be remedied merely by c!eaning and ciIng.
- H The upper thread breaks: 6. The upper tension is too strong — loo sen it (see page 25). 1. The needle is bent or inaccurately in serted—replace the needle (see page 7. The eye of the needle has a cutting edge — replace the needle. 2. Knotty, inferior quality thread is being 8.
— — — — — The bobbin thread breaks: The machine skips stitches: 1. Knotty, inferior thread is being used — 1. The needle is not inserted all the way use a better quality, up in the needle clamp — correct this (see page 10). 2. The bobbin thread tDnsion is too strong — loosen it (see page 25).
6. A wrong type of needle is being used — obtain the correct needle system 130 R from your dealer. 7. The hook point is damaged — consult your dealer. 8. A wrong sewing foot has been used — as far as possible the normal sewing foot 847495 should be used.
Unsatisfactory feed of the The material puckers: ii: n terial: 1. Lint and thread ends in the feed as- 1. Both thread tensions are set too strong sembly are impeding the smooth move- — loosen both upper and bobbin thread ment of the feed dog — remove the tension see page 25:.
Uneven stitching 1. The thread is uneven or too thick — 5, The bobbin has been replaced impro change the thread. perly — check the position of the bob bin in the bobbin case following in 2. Tne tension is wrong — adjust it (see structions on pages 15 and 16.
An important point after buying a device Pfaff 339 (or even before the purchase) is to read its user manual. We should do this for several simple reasons:
If you have not bought Pfaff 339 yet, this is a good time to familiarize yourself with the basic data on the product. First of all view first pages of the manual, you can find above. You should find there the most important technical data Pfaff 339 - thus you can check whether the hardware meets your expectations. When delving into next pages of the user manual, Pfaff 339 you will learn all the available features of the product, as well as information on its operation. The information that you get Pfaff 339 will certainly help you make a decision on the purchase.
If you already are a holder of Pfaff 339, but have not read the manual yet, you should do it for the reasons described above. You will learn then if you properly used the available features, and whether you have not made any mistakes, which can shorten the lifetime Pfaff 339.
However, one of the most important roles played by the user manual is to help in solving problems with Pfaff 339. Almost always you will find there Troubleshooting, which are the most frequently occurring failures and malfunctions of the device Pfaff 339 along with tips on how to solve them. Even if you fail to solve the problem, the manual will show you a further procedure – contact to the customer service center or the nearest service center