Instruction/ maintenance manual of the product Mondeo (1996) Ford
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For d Mondeo Service and Repair Manual Jer emy Chur chill and A K Legg LAE MIMI Models covered All Ford Mondeo models with four -cylinder petr ol engines, including special/limited editions 1597 cc, 1.
LIVING WITH YOUR FORD MONDEO Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 General dimensions and weights Page 0•6 MOT T est Checks Checks carried out from the driver’ s seat Page 0•7 Checks .
REP AIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems In-car engine repair pr ocedures Page 2A•1 Engine removal and general engine overhaul pr ocedures Page 2B•1 Cooling, heating and air condition.
0•4 Introduction Introduced in Mar ch 1993, the Ford Mondeo models are available in four -door Saloon, five-door Hatchback and five-door Estate configurations.
W orking on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of cr eating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazar ds Scalding • Don’t r emove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.
0•6 General Dimensions & W eights Dimensions Overall length: Saloon, Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4481 mm Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0•7 This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same standard as the pr ofessional MOT tester . However , working through the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable to all seat belts, front and rear . M Examine the webbing of all the belts (including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten each belt to check the buckles.
Exhaust system M Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the entire system for leaks. Repair or renew leaking sections. Jack up the front and r ear of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands. Position the stands clear of the suspension assemblies.
0•10 M Examine the handbrake mechanism, checking for frayed or broken cables, excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of the linkage. Check that the mechanism works on each relevant wheel, and r eleases fully , without binding.
0•11 Roadside Repairs T o change a wheel, r emove the spare wheel and jack, apply the handbrake, and chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed. On manual transmission models, select first or reverse gear; on automatic transmission models, place the selector lever in “P”.
0•12 When jump-starting a car using a booster battery , observe the following precautions: A) Before connecting the booster battery , make sure that the ignition is switched off. B) Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater , wipers, etc) is switched off.
0•13 Roadside Repairs Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car , suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming fr om, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already .
0•14 Conversion Factors Length (distance) Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in 3 ) x 16.
Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Automatic transmission fluid level check .
1•2 Lubricants, Fluids & Capacities Lubricants and fluids Component or system Lubricant type/specification Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better, viscosity range 5W/5.
For d Mondeo maintenance schedule 1•3 1 Maintenance schedule The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration.
1•4 Engine compartment components 1 Spark plugs (Section 31) 2 Engine oil filler cap (Section 3) 3 Brake fluid reservoir (Section 3) 4 Auxiliary fusebox (Chapter 12) 5 Air cleaner assembly (Section .
1•5 1 Maintenance procedures Rear underbody view - Saloon and Hatchback models 1 Silencers (Section 21) 2 Rear brakes (Section 23) 3 Exhaust system rubber mounting (Section 21) 4 Handbrake cables (S.
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Ford Mondeo models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life. On the following pages are Sections dealing specifically with each item on the maintenance schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included.
cylinder head cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustration) . When topping-up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. It takes approximately 0.
15 Coolant hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops. If the specific gravity of a sample taken from the expansion tank (when the engine is switched off and fully cooled down) is less than that specified, the coolant mixture strength has fallen below the minimum.
wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol (see illustration) . Tread wear can also be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration) .
the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition.
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•11 1 7.4 Removing the automatic transmission dipstick from its tube 7.6A “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick 7.6B Adding automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube Every 10 000 miles 1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained.
General 1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery (see illustration) .
amperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery, and can damage batteries not in good condition.
being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise, and a smooth return to the limit of its travel when released. 11 If the original drivebelt is being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that it is installed to run in the same direction as it was previously.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid.
comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! (d) Check that the drain tube from the front of the evaporator is clear - note that it is norm.
Warning: To avoid personal injury, never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported by only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.
of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks.
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration) .
brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications. 14 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9) (see illustration) .
pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! 8 .
are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the radiator undershield, noting that it is located by three clips at its front edge; tighten the retaining screws securely (see illustration) . If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground.
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine. 1 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system components are located at the front of the engine, underneath the exhaust manifold and air intake resonator.
To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine).
check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to the best method of repair. 7 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine.
1•26 Every 60 000 miles Every 60 000 miles Refer to Chapter 2, Part A. Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area.
Chapter 2 Part A: In-car engine r epair pr ocedur es Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting .
Lubrication Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Oil pressure .
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm lbf ft Engine/automatic transmission rear mounting: Mounting bracket-to-transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 49 35 to 36 Mounting-to-subframe bolts - stage 1 . . . . . . . . . .
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the timing belt, and is driven with the power steering pump and alternator by a flat “polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley.
The cylinder head is provided with two oil galleries, one on the inlet side and one on the exhaust, to ensure constant oil supply to the camshaft bearings and hydraulic tappets.
specifications were available from Ford, but a typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars. All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any difference greater than 10% indicates the existence of a fault.
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4. Where fitted, disconnect also the cruise control actuator cable (see Chapter 12). 3 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Section 9). 4 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union (see illustration) .
16 Unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head and withdraw it (see illustration) . Take care not to damage vulnerable components such as the EGR pipe and valve as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.
9 Remove the nuts and detach the manifold and gasket (see illustration) . Take care not to damage vulnerable components such as the EGR pipe as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.
using the method outlined in (2) above. (2) If the vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, see (2) above. (c) If the engine/transmission has been removed and separated, use the method shown in illustration 21.11. 4 Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove the pulley (see illustrations) .
1 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1 (see illustration) . 2 Unbolt the power steering high-pressure pipe from the cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye, and from the front support plate/pump bracket.
contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled.
the camshaft aligning tool will slip into place; take care not to disturb the relationship of the pulley to the timing belt. Without disturbing the pulley’s new position on the camshaft, tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torque wrench setting (see illustration) .
related components, to remove all traces of oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly. 2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.
wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and renew if necessary. 8 Measure the outside diameter of each tappet (see illustration) - take measurements at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a s.
away from the gauge, and note the gauge reading. If the endfloat measured is found to be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed.
23 If using Ford’s recommended procedure, fit new oil seals to the camshafts as described in paragraph 5 of Section 12. 24 Using the marks and notes made on dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to its original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleys to the camshafts, tightening the retaining bolts loosely (see illustration) .
14 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (Chapter 4); disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight of the exhaust system. 15 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1).
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the stages given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter (see illustrations) . Note: Once tightened correctly, following this procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not require check-tightening, and must not be re- torqued.
additional lifting eyes where required (see illustration) . Remove completely the engine/transmission front mounting, unscrew the rear mounting’s centre bolt, and unbolt the left-hand mounting from the body. Unscrew the six nuts securing the right-hand mounting bracket, and withdraw the bracket.
and right-hand mountings. Do not yet release the hoist; the weight of the engine/transmission unit must not be taken by the mountings until all are correctly aligned.
the gasket, move the pump into the correct position, and tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 14 Check that the pump is correctly located; if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the pump is correctly aligned.
3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft, polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 16).
Removal 1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to check components such as oil seals and renew them if necessary. 2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch (Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or renew the clutch components and pilot bearing.
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4). Unbolt the pulse-air filter housing from the mounting bracket, th.
the nuts are self-locking, and must therefore be renewed whenever they are disturbed. Unscrew the centre bolt to dismantle the mounting, if necessary to renew components. 15 On refitting, renew the self-locking nuts, and do not allow the mounting to twist as the nuts are tightened (see illustration) .
Chapter 2 Part B: Engine r emoval and general engine overhaul pr ocedur es Compression test - description and interpretation . . . See Chapter 2A Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check .
Pistons and piston rings Piston diameter - 1.6 litre engine: Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.975 to 75.985 mm Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
How to use this Chapter This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to engine/transmission removal and refitting, to those repair procedures requiring the removal of the engine/transmission from the vehicle, and to the overhaul of engine components. It includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures.
safely and with relative ease, and which may have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some wooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low, wheeled platform capable of taking the weight of the engine/transmission, so that it can be moved easily when on the ground).
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing (only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator) (see illustration) . (b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s left-hand end (see illustration) .
inner wing panel, release the engine wiring loom and refit the power steering fluid reservoir. (g) Secure the engine wiring loom neatly to the engine/transmission so that it cannot be damaged as the unit is removed from the vehicle.
31 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, disconnect the driveshafts from the transmission as follows, referring to Chapter 8 for further details when required: (a) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw the heat shield.
socket spanner of suitable size (see illustrations) . 48 Once the subframe is aligned as precisely as possible, tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting without disturbing its position. Recheck the alignment once all the bolts are securely tightened.
gear linkage heat shield. Reconnect the gearchange linkage and transmission support rods to the transmission, adjusting the linkage using the marks made on removal (see Chapter 7, Part A, for details). 56 Re-install the remaining components and fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
2 Remove the cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter, Section 14). 3 Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed.
4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems. Inspection Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required.
grinding or head resurfacing. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. 2 Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first valve. Apply molybdenum disulphide-based grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the valve.
remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston ring breakage. 7 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the cap.
applicable); note that Ford state that the piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be renewed whenever the engine is dismantled for full overhaul (see illustrations) . 2 Remove the main bearing caps, and separate the bearing shells from the caps and the cylinder block/crankcase.
each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration) . If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation; a good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied water-dispersant lubricant into each hole, using the long spout usually supplied.
15 Measure the piston diameter at right- angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the bottom of the skirt; again, note the results (see illustration) . 16 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt as described above, and subtract the skirt diameter from the bore measurement.
Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.
Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this Part. A Ford dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 7 Incorrect shell refitting during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation.
(see illustration) . Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 8 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove.
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is noticeably wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered (see Section 13). 12 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the main bearing journals and the bearing surfaces.
rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston rings may try to pop out of the ring compressor just before entering the cylinder bore, so keep some pressure on the ring compressor. Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately.
Chapter 3 Cooling, heating, and air conditioning systems Air conditioning system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting .
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft Radiator mounting bracket-to-subframe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17 Fluid cooler pipe unions - automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17 Thermostat housing-to-cylinder head bolts .
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it on its unions before attempting to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed screwdriver), but do not apply too much force, and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or hoses.
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will slow warm-up time. The engine management system’s ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for longer than necessary, causing emissions and fuel economy to suffer. 9 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is open.
sender’s electrical connector, and use a jumper wire to connect the white/red wire to a clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine. Switch on the ignition without starting the engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew the sender. 5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit may be open, or the gauge may be faulty.
Warning: Do not disconnect any of the refrigerant hoses. 5 Unbolt the radiator mounting brackets from the subframe; note that they are handed, and are marked to ensure correct refitting (see illustration) . Collect the bottom mounting rubbers, noting which way up they are fitted, and store them carefully.
Heater blower motor Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Release the four clips (by pulling them out) securing the passenger side footwell upper trim panel, then withdraw the panel. 3 Unplug the motor’s electrical connector.
duct is lowered from the air distributor and secured with its screw. 16 Refill the cooling system with the proper mixture of antifreeze and water (see Chapter 1). Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, indicated by the radiator top hose becoming hot.
the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into low-pressure vapour, taking the heat with it when it leaves the evaporator. Precautions Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or remove any components until after the system has been discharged.
to unscrew the pressure-cycling switch to allow the use of the tool. Immediately cap the open fittings, to prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. 27 Withdraw the accumulator/dehydrator. 28 Refit the accumulator/dehydrator in the reverse order of removal; renew all seals disturbed.
Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems Accelerator cable (models with traction control) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Accelerator cable (models without traction control) - removal, refitting and adjustment .
This Chapter is concerned with those features of the engine management system that supply clean fuel and air to the engine, meter it in the required proportions, and dispose of the results.
3 Release the protruding locking lugs on each union, by squeezing them together and carefully pulling the coupling apart. Use rag to soak up any spilt fuel.
housing stud) and the sealing O-ring in the chamber’s mouth (see illustrations) . 11 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the O-ring and spacers are correctly seated. Underwing components 12 Remove the left-hand wheel arch liner (see Chapter 11).
which pulley, disconnect the first cable end nipple from the throttle actuator’s upper pulley, then slide the cable outer upwards out of the actuator housing. Disconnect the second cable in the same way from the actuator’s lower pulley. 6 Working in the passenger compartment, reach up to the top of the accelerator pedal.
(b) If the pressure is low, pinch the fuel return line. If the pressure now goes up, renew the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure does not increase, check the fuel feed line, the fuel pump and the fuel filter. 6 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator; the pressure shown on the gauge should increase.
the ring square to the tank and turning it at the same time. 10 Maintain the pressure while an assistant refits and engages the retaining ring. When the ring is engaged in the tank lugs, turn it clockwise to tighten it until it is secured. 11 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the reverse of removal.
(b) On Estate models, slacken the clamp immediately above the rear anti-roll bar, and work the hose off the filler neck stub (see illustration). 8 Unscrew the six retaining nuts, and withdraw the exhaust system’s rear heat shield from the underbody (see illustration).
into the inlet ports, just above the inlet valves, by four fuel injectors. The system also includes features such as the flushing of fresh (ie, cold) fuel around each injector on start-up, thus improving hot starts. The amount of fuel supplied by the injectors is precisely controlled by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU).
Renewal 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 4 Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec- tion 4). 5 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap- ter 12).
rings, and intend to re-use the same injectors, remove the old nose seal and O-rings, and discard them. 22 Further testing of the injector(s) is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. If you are in doubt as to the status of any injector(s), it can be tested at a dealer service department.
Idle-increase solenoid valve Check 43 If this valve is thought to be faulty, unplug its electrical connector and disconnect its vacuum hoses, then connect a battery directly across the valve’s terminals.
Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . .
General information The engine electrical systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are discussed separately from body electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc (which are included in Chapter 12).
5 If you are renewing the battery, make sure that you get one that’s identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc.
3 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the coil’s primary windings, connecting the meter between the coil’s terminal pins as follows. Measure first from one outer pin to the centre pin, then from the other outer pin to the centre.
5 Undo the sensor’s retaining screw and withdraw the sensor. The sensor’s bracket cannot be unbolted from the cylinder block/crankcase unless the transmission and flywheel/driveplate have been removed (see Chapter 2). 6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.
at the top, two at the bottom). Withdraw the alternator from the engine, and manoeuvre it out through the wheel arch (see illustration) . Do not drop it, it is fragile. 7 If you are renewing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit.
starter motor must be overhauled or renewed. (Other possibilities are that the starter motor mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring gear.
Brush renewal 2 Remove the brushes as shown (see illustrations) . 3 In some cases, the brushes will have wear limit marks, in the form of a groove etched along one face of each brush; when the brushes are worn down to these marks, they must be renewed.
Chapter 9 Braking system ABS hydraulic unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 ABS relay box - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ABS wheel sensor - testing, removal and refitting .
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft Front caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89 Rear caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44 Front caliper guide bolts .
basic ABS system, with an additional pump and valves fitted to the hydraulic actuator (see illustration) . If wheelspin is detected at a speed below 30 mph, one of the valves opens, to allow the pump to pressurise the relevant brake, until the spinning wheel slows to a rotational speed corresponding to the speed of the vehicle.
caliper bore, to provide room for the new brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to accomplish this. As the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the master cylinder will rise slightly.
5 Support the caliper in one hand, and prevent the hydraulic hose from turning with the other hand. Unscrew the caliper from the hose, making sure that the hose is not twisted unduly or strained. Once the caliper is detached, plug the open hydraulic unions in the caliper and hose, to keep out dust and dirt.
Removal 8 With the wheel and caliper removed, remove the wheel nuts which were temporarily refitted in paragraph 3. 9 Mark the disc in relation to the hub, if it is to be refitted. 10 Remove the two special washers (where fitted), and withdraw the disc over the wheel studs (see illustrations) .
Braking system 9•7 9 6.2K Pull the handbrake cable spring back from the operating lever on the rear of the trailing shoe. Unhook the cable end from the cut-out in the lever, and remove the shoe 6.2L Unhook the automatic adjustment strut from the trailing brake shoe .
6 With the drum in position, refit the wheel, then carry out the renewal procedure on the remaining rear brake. 7 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts. 8 Depress the brake pedal several times, in order to operate the self-adjusting mechanism and set the shoes at their normal operating position.
bracket. Note that on Saloon and Hatchback models, the pin is at the bottom of the caliper, whereas on Estate models, it is at the top. 5 Swivel the caliper away from the carrier bracket, to expose the brake pads (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the pad wear warning light wire (when fitted) at the connector.
10 Bleed the brake circuit according to the procedure given in Section 15. Make sure there are no leaks from the hose connections. Test the brakes carefully before returning the vehicle to normal service. Refer to Section 4 (front disc inspection). Once the rear caliper is removed, the procedure is the same.
5 Press the pedal pivot shaft to the left, through the mounting bracket, just far enough to allow the pedal to be withdrawn. On manual transmission models, leave the blue nylon spacer (located between the clutch and brake pedals) on the pivot shaft (see illustration) .
Repeat the procedure at the other end of the pipe, then release the pipe by pulling out the clips attaching it to the body (see illustrations) . Where the union nuts are exposed to the full force of the weather, they can sometimes be quite tight.
and remove the clevis pin securing the servo unit pushrod to the pedal cross-link arm. 7 On left-hand drive models, unscrew the nut securing the pedal trunnion to the servo unit pushrod inside the passenger compartment. The nut is located near the top of the pedal, and is accessible through an access hole.
Note: If any part of the ABS hydraulic unit is defective, it must be renewed as an assembly. Apart from the relay box (Section 22), individual spare parts are not available. Removal 1 Remove both pressure-control relief valves as described in Section 19.
5 Slacken and remove the four Torx retaining screws, and withdraw the relay box from the hydraulic unit (see illustration). Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Do not overtighten the relay box retaining screws, as the plastic is easily cracked Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
Refitting and adjustment 5 With the switch removed, reset it by fully extending its plunger. 6 Depress the brake pedal until the distance between the pedal and mounting bracket is as shown (see illustration). 7 Hold the pedal in this position, and refit the stop-light switch to the mounting bracket .
Chapter 6 Emissions contr ol systems Catalytic converter - general information, checking and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Diagnosis system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
To minimise pollution of the atmosphere from incompletely-burned and evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability and fuel economy, a number of emission control systems are used on these vehicles. They include the following: (a) The engine management system (comprising both fuel and ignition sub- systems) itself.
Emissions control systems 6•3 6 2.1B Location of principal fuel injection, ignition and emissions control system components 2.1A Engine management system, showing fuel injection, ignition and emissi.
constantly monitors the oxygen content of the exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical signal is sent to the ECU.
coolant or EGR pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly after previous work has been carried out (see the note at the beginning of this sub-Section).
back again, as an assistant depresses the accelerator pedal. If the valve shows any sign of stiffness, sticking or otherwise-inhibited movement (and the accelerator cable is known from the previous ch.
24 Ford specify the use of their STAR (Self- Test Automatic Readout) tester; most Ford dealers should have such equipment, and the staff trained to use it effectively.
6•8 Emissions control systems Code Meaning Action 000 Ready for test - 010 Command/separator code Depress accelerator pedal fully, then release 020 Command code Depress brake pedal fully, then relea.
Code Meaning Action 327 EGR system exhaust gas pressure differential sensor or solenoid valve Check components (Section 6 of this Chapter) 328 EGR system solenoid valve Check component (Section 6 of t.
Ignition timing and base idle speed check Note: The following procedure is a check only, essentially of the ECU. Both the ignition timing and the base idle speed are controlled by the ECU. The ignition timing is not adjustable at all; the base idle speed is set in production, and should not be altered.
passes the sensor tip, a signal is generated, which is used by the ECU to determine engine speed. 4 The ridge between the 35th and 36th holes (corresponding to 90° BTDC) is missing - this step in the incoming signals is used by the ECU to determine crankshaft (ie, piston) position.
Vehicle speed sensor 29 Testing of this component is beyond the scope of the DIY mechanic, and should be left to a Ford dealer. Power steering pressure switch 30 Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. 31 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the switch terminals.
(a) Apply petroleum jelly or clean engine oil to the sensor’s sealing O-ring. (b) Locate the sensor fully in the cylinder head, and wipe off any surplus lubricant before securing it. (c) Tighten the screw to the specified torque wrench setting. Coolant temperature sensor 48 Refer to Chapter 3, Section 6.
(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or worn. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to the sensor’s threads, to prevent them from welding themselves to the downpipe in service. Refit the sensor, tightening it to its specified torque wrench setting; a slotted socket will be required to do this (see illustration) .
15 Unscrew the two rearmost canister assembly retaining bolts (see illustration) . 16 Unplug the two hoses from the canister assembly, noting which way round they are fitted (see illustration) . 17 Unscrew the canister assembly’s front retaining bolt (see illustration) .
EGR valve, and check the valve and the inlet manifold for blockage. Clean or renew parts as necessary, and recheck. EGR system 6 Any further checking of the system requires special tools and test equipment. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department for checking.
General information 1 This system consists of the pulse-air solenoid valve, the pulse-air valve itself, contained in the filter housing, and the piping - see illustration 2.
components are worn or damaged, the assembly must be renewed. 18 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Pulse-air piping Note: This component, and those around it, will be very hot when the engine is running. Always allow the engine to cool down fully before starting work, to prevent the possibility of burns.
2 The function of these components is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the c.
hence the heat shields on the vehicle underbody - and the casing will become hot enough to ignite combustible materials which brush against it. DO NOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of dead leaves. (k) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE.
Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Front anti-roll bar and links - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Front hub and bearings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting .
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft Front suspension Front subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 150 81 to 111 Lower arm balljoint to lower arm (service replacement, bolted on) . . . . 58 43 Lower arm balljoint-to-steering knuckle clamp bolt .
The independent front suspension is of MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil springs, integral telescopic shock absorbers, and an anti-roll bar. The struts are attached to steering knuckles at their lower ends, and the knuckles are in turn attached to the lower suspension arm by balljoints.
10•4 Suspension and steering systems pressed-steel lower side arms. A tie-bar on each side supports the rear suspension knuckles. The coil springs are separate from the shock absorbers (see illustration) . A rear anti-roll bar is fitted to all models.
Since most of the procedures dealt with in this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle and working underneath it, a good pair of axle stands will be needed. A hydraulic trolley jack is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle, and it can also be used to support certain components during removal and refitting operations.
11 Locate one of the circlips in the outer groove of the knuckle. 12 Press or drive the new bearing into the knuckle until it contacts the circlip, using a length of metal tube of diameter slightly less than the outer race. Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
holding the piston rod with an 8 mm Allen key. If the adaptor needed to do this is not available, the nut can be tightened initially with a ring spanner while the piston rod is held. Final tightening can then be carried out using a torque wrench and a conventional socket (see illustration) .
spring must now be carefully released from the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the spring can be left in compression. 7 With the strut assembly now completely dismantled, examine all the components for wear and damage, and check the bearing for smoothness of operation.
Refitting 12 Locate the lower arm on the subframe, and insert the mounting bolts. Fit the nuts and tighten them in stages, first to the specified torque and then through the angle specified. 13 If removed, locate the tripod on the inner end of the driveshaft in the CV joint housing, then refit the gaiter, together with a new clip.
Note: Removal of the rear hub from the knuckle damages the bearings, and renders them unserviceable for future use. The hub and bearing assembly must always be renewed if it is removed. Removal 1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
12 Fit the coil spring compressor tool (ensuring that it is fully engaged), and compress the coil spring until all tension is relieved from the upper and lower mountings (see illustration). This will also release the bracket on the strut from the bump stop rubber on the top of the rear crossmember.
Refitting 15 Locate the strut assembly (together with the coil spring compressor tool) under the wheel arch, and locate the bracket on the bump stop on the rear suspension crossmember. Insert the two bolts securing the upper mounting to the underbody tower, and tighten them to the specified torque.
3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mounting clamps to the rear suspension crossmember, then unhook the clamps and withdraw the anti-roll bar from under the vehicle (see illustration) . 4 Examine the rubber bushes for the mounting clamps and links, and if necessary renew them.
actual links stationary while the nuts are being unscrewed, to prevent damage to the joints. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards, and recover the rubber bushes. 5 Where applicable, remove the ABS wheel sensor from the rear suspension knuckle as described in Chapter 9.
2 Position a trolley jack under the coil spring area of the rear lower suspension arm, to keep the coil spring in compression. 3 Unscrew and remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (see illustration) . 4 Unscrew and remove the upper mounting bolt, and withdraw the shock absorber from under the vehicle.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but make sure that the coil spring is located correctly in the upper and lower seats (see illustration) . Delay fully tightening the two lower arm mounting bolts until the weight of the vehicle is on the rear suspension.
2 Using a trolley jack, support the rear lower arm beneath the coil spring position. 3 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the rear shock absorber to the knuckle. 4 Where applicable, release the ABS wheel sensor lead from the tie-bar. 5 Detach the handbrake cable from the tie- bar bracket.
2 Turn the steering wheel so that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 3 Unscrew the screws, and remove the steering column upper and lower shrouds.
5 Remove the driver’s side lower facia panel (see Chapter 11). 6 Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the steering column shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage it from the flexible coupling stub (see illustrations) .
15 Locate the steering column shaft on the flexible coupling, swivel the clamp plate round, then insert the bolt and tighten to the specified torque. 16 Refit the driver’s side lower trim panel. 17 Refit the steering column upper and lower shrouds. 18 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
7 Support the radiator in its raised position, by inserting split pins through the small holes in the radiator mounting extensions which protrude through the upper mountings (see illustration) . 8 Unbolt and remove the radiator lower mounting brackets.
3 Start the engine, and allow it to run at a fast idle. Check the hoses and connections for leaks. 4 Stop the engine, and recheck the fluid level. Add more if necessary, up to the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” mark. 5 Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then bleed the system by slowly turning the steering wheel from side to side several times.
can be assumed, therefore, that unless the vehicle has suffered accident damage, all the preset steering angles will be correct. Should there be some doubt about their accuracy, it will be necessary to seek the help of a Ford dealer, as special gauges are needed to check the steering angles.
Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings Body side-trim mouldings and adhesive emblems - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . .
models (see illustration) . In other countries, it is available on certain models only. Where double-locking is fitted, the lock mechanism is disconnected (when the system is in use) from the interior door handles, making it impossible to open any of the doors or the tailgate/bootlid from inside the vehicle.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging, and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker’s instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly.
7 Disconnect the rear exhaust mounting rubber, and support the exhaust system on an axle stand. 8 Remove the screws securing the wheel arch liners to the rear bumper. 9 Unscrew the bumper mounting nuts, and withdraw the bumper rearwards from the vehicle, at the same time disconnecting the guides from the side pins (see illustration) .
11.3B . . . and disconnect the multi-plug uniform gap all round. Adjust the rear height of the bonnet by repositioning it on the hinges. Adjust the front height by repositioning the lock (see Section 10) and turning the rubber buffers on the engine compartment front cross panel up or down to support the bonnet (see illustration) .
ease the bezel off the inner door handle (see illustrations) . 3 Where applicable, remove the window operating switch and disconnect the multi- plug (see illustrations) . Front door 4 Carefully prise out the cover, remove the screws and withdraw the door pull handle (see illustrations) .
9 If necessary, the foam insulation may be removed from the door. First remove the speaker as described in Chapter 12. 10 On models with manual windows, remove the foam spacer from the regulator spindle (see illustration) . 11 On the rear door, unscrew the screws and remove the door pull bracket (see illustration) .
6 Carefully prise off the weatherstrip from the outside of the door. 7 Support the glass, then unscrew the bolts from the support bracket. 8 Lift the glass from the door while tilting it at the rear, and withdraw it from the outside. Front (electric) 9 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
5 On electric windows, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the motor (see illustration) . 6 Withdraw the window regulator mechanism from inside the door, through the hole in the inner panel (see illustrations) . Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.
4 Unscrew and remove the lock mounting bolts on the inner rear edge of the door, and remove the plate. Also remove the additional support screw (see illustrations) . 5 Unclip and disconnect the wiring multi- plugs for the central locking and alarm systems (see illustration) .
strip, so that the foam insulator can be peeled back for access to the lock. Do not peel back the foam insulator without first cutting through the adhesive strip. To ensure a good seal when the insulator is pressed back, do not touch the adhesive strip.
30 Detach the mounting plate from the lock. 31 Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip (see illustration) . 32 Prise the plastic shield from the locating post (see illustration) . 33 Slide the outer cable from the lock bracket (see illustration) , then turn the inner cable through a quarter-turn to remove it from the bell crank.
door, then drive the hinge pins down through the hinges using a small drift (see illustrations) . 6 Carefully withdraw the door from the hinges. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but check that the door lock passes over the striker centrally.
Removal Lock barrel 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 With the boot lid open, remove the luggage space trim from the right-hand rear corner. 3 Remove the screws, and prise out the rear light trim cover from the guides.
19 Attach a strong fine cord to the end of the wiring loom, to act as an aid to guiding the wiring through the tailgate when it is refitted. 20 Prise the rubber grommet from the top left-hand side of the tailgate aperture, and pull out the wiring loom.
14 Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip near the lock (see illustration) . 15 Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock mounting screws, and withdraw the lock for access to the cables (see illustration) . 16 Disconnect both the inner and outer cables from the lock bracket (see illustration) .
adhesive bond between the moulding or emblem and the panel (see illustration) . 2 Thoroughly clean all traces of adhesive from the panel using methylated spirit, and allow the location to dry. Refitting 3 Peel back the protective paper from the rear face of the new moulding or emblem.
Warning: Be careful when handling the seat belt tensioning device (“grabber”). It contains a powerful spring, which could cause injury if released in an uncontrolled fashion. Once fired, the grabber cannot be reset, and must be renewed. Note also that seat belts and associated components which have been subject to impact loads must be renewed.
8 Unscrew the mounting bolt securing the seat belt stalk, and withdraw the stalk. Also unscrew the mounting bolt from the lower anchorage, where applicable (see illustration) . Rear centre seat belt 9 Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the seat belt and stalks to the floor.
the upper hook. Note that, on low-series models, the bolster is retained with a screw (see illustrations) . 16 Undo the screw, release the clips, and detach the upper trim. 17 Remove the rear seat belt lower mounting bolt, then remove the trim, and pass the seat belt through it.
6 Prise off the plastic caps, then unscrew the centre console mounting screws. These are located on each side, on the front top, and inside the cassette storage box. The screws with the washers go on the side of the console; the front screws are smaller than the others, and black in colour (see illustrations) .
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Remove the windscreen wiper arms (Chapter 12), then remove the cowl from just in front of the windscreen. The cowl is in two sections, with retaining screws located along its front edge.
Refitting 24 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. On completion, check the operation of all electrical components. Removal Front 1 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. If wished, remove the wheel to improve access.
Chapter 12 Body electrical system Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting .
Fuses (main fusebox in passenger compartment) Note: Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer, for specific information. Fuse Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected 19 7.
Bulbs Wattage Type Headlight main beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen Headlight dipped beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen Foglights . . .
compartment, but on Estate models, it is on the right-hand side. Some models are fitted with a headlight levelling system, which is controlled by a knob on the facia. On position “0”, the headlights are in their base position, and on position “5”, the headlights are in their maximum inclined angle.
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or silicone-based grease, or by spraying on (at regular intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer such as Holts Damp Start, or a water- dispersant lubricant such as Holts Wet Start.
functions of the various relays are given in the Specifications (see illustration) . 8 If a component controlled by a relay becomes inoperative and the relay is suspect, listen to the relay as the circuit is operated. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energized.
Main light, auxiliary foglight and rear foglight combination switch Note : From July 1994 a rvised main light switch was introduced; this was fitted as standard in production. If the revised switch is to be fitted to a pre-July 1994 model, an adapter lead will also be required to prevent electrical damage ocurring.
Heated windscreen switch and heated rear window switch 48 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 49 Carefully prise out the switch, using a cloth pad to prevent damage to the trim (see illustration) . 50 Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the switch (see illustration) .
6 Pull out the bulb and disconnect the wiring lead (see illustration) . 7 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that the bulbholder is correctly located in the headlight unit. Have the headlight beam alignment checked as described later in this Chapter.
28 Depress and twist the appropriate bulb to remove it from the bulbholder (see illustrations) . 29 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. Make sure that the rear light cluster is fully inserted. Number plate light 30 Remove the cross-head screws from the number plate light, and remove the light unit (see illustration) .
Engine compartment light 1 With the bonnet open, pull the wedge-type bulb from the bulbholder. 2 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. Interior lights 3 Switch off the interior light by locating the switch in its middle position.
32 Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise using a screwdriver, then remove the bulbholder from the rear of the clock (see illustrations) . Heater control illumination 33 Remove the heater control panel (Chapter 3), then twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise and remove the bulb from the rear of the panel.
located above the front direction indicator (see illustration) . 11 Withdraw the front direction indicator light unit. 12 Rotate the bulbholder anti-clockwise, and withdraw it from the light unit. Alternatively, the wiring plug can be disconnected from the bulbholder, leaving the bulb in position (see illustration) .
2 Where fitted, remove the clock as described in Section 13. 3 Where fitted, remove the trip computer module as described in Section 18. 4 Remove the heated rear window switch as described in Section 4. 5 Where fitted, remove the heated windscreen switch.
6 Similarly remove the fuel gauge and temperature gauge by unscrewing the single screws. 7 Remove all the pin contacts. 8 Using a small punch, push in the multi-plug securing pins, and remove the multi-plugs. 9 Carefully lift the printed circuit from the location dowels on the housing, taking care not to damage it.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). If the windscreen wiper arms are to be removed, close the bonnet. 2 With the wiper(s) “parked” (ie in the normal at-rest position), mark the positions of the blade(s) on the screen, using a wax crayon or strips of masking tape.
8 Disconnect the wiper motor multi-plug. 9 Withdraw the wiper motor, complete with the linkage, from the bulkhead (see illustration) . 10 Mark the position of the motor arm on the mounting plate, then unscrew the centre nut (see illustration) . 11 Unscrew the motor mounting bolts, and separate the motor from the linkage assembly.
the specified mileage (or time) since the last service has been reached. 4 To reset the service interval system and turn off the light, a switch inside the glovebox must be depressed for a minimum of 4 seconds with the ignition switched on. This should be carried out by a Ford dealer if the vehicle is still in the warranty period.
4 The system module is located on a bracket beneath the right-hand side of the facia. The set and reset switches are located in a housing by the lock barrel holder in the doors, tailgate or bootlid. 5 To allow temporary opening of the tailgate or bootlid, an inhibit switch is fitted to the lock barrel.
switches mounted in the engine compartment with a control cable connected to the throttle valve actuator, driver-operated switches, brake and clutch pedal switches, an indicator light, and a road speed sensor. 4 The driver-operated switches are mounted on the steering wheel, and allow the driver to control the various functions.
headlamp washer pump, from the reservoir (see illustration) . 7 Remove the rubber seals. Washer nozzle (windscreen) 8 With the bonnet supported in its open position, carefully disconnect the washer tube from the bottom of the nozzle. 9 Using a screwdriver and working from under the bonnet, carefully prise out the nozzle.
1 A compact disc (CD) player is available as an optional extra on most models. On some models, an autochanger version is available, which can hold a number of discs at a time. Removal 2 The battery negative (earth) lead should be disconnected before commencing work.
Wiring diagrams 12•23 12 Notes, internal connection details and key to symbols.
12•24 Wiring diagrams Internal connection details continued.
Wiring diagrams 12•25 12 Diagram 1: Starting, charging, warning lights and gauges.
12•26 Wiring diagrams Diagram 2: Engine management – sensor inputs (manual transmission models).
Wiring diagrams 12•27 12 Diagram 3: Engine management – solenoid outputs and fuel pump (manual transmission models).
12•28 Wiring diagrams Diagram 4: Engine management – ignition, tachometer, cooling fan and diagnostic connectors (manual transmission models).
Wiring diagrams 12•29 12 Diagram 5: Engine management – sensor inputs (automatic transmission models).
12•30 Wiring diagrams Diagram 6: Engine management – solenoid outputs, ignition and fuel pump (automatic transmission models).
Wiring diagrams 12•31 12 Diagram 7: Engine management – cooling fan, solenoid valve unit and diagnostic connectors (automatic transmission models).
12•32 Wiring diagrams Diagram 8: Exterior lighting – side and headlights (right-hand drive models: dim-dip).
Wiring diagrams 12•33 12 Diagram 9: Exterior lighting – side and headlights (left-hand drive models: non dim-dip).
12•34 Wiring diagrams Diagram 10: Exterior lighting – side and headlights (left-hand drive models: daytime running lights).
Wiring diagrams 12•35 12 Diagram 11: Exterior lighting – hazard flasher and direction indicators.
12•36 Wiring diagrams Diagram 12: Exterior lighting – foglights, stop-lights and reversing lights.
Wiring diagrams 12•37 12 Diagram 13: Interior lighting – front and rear courtesy, footwell and luggage compartment lights.
12•38 Wiring diagrams Diagram 14: Interior lighting – torch, glovebox and engine compartment lights.
Wiring diagrams 12•39 12 Diagram 15: Interior illumination.
12•40 Wiring diagrams Diagram 16: Wash/wipe and heated washer jets.
Wiring diagrams 12•41 12 Diagram 17 Headlight washer, horn, clock and cigar lighter.
12•42 Wiring diagrams Diagram 18: Heated mirrors and heated front/rear screens.
Wiring diagrams 12•43 12 Diagram 19: Air conditioning and heater blower.
12•44 Wiring diagrams Diagram 20: Central door locking (with double locking).
Wiring diagrams 12•45 12 Diagram 21: Anti-theft alarm.
12•46 Wiring diagrams Diagram 22: Electric mirrors and (front) electric window.
Wiring diagrams 12•47 12 Diagram 23: Electric sunroof and (front and rear) electric windows.
12•48 Wiring diagrams Diagram 24: Bulb failure warning system.
Wiring diagrams 12•49 12 Diagram 25: Auxiliary warning system.
12•50 Wiring diagrams Diagram 26: Trip computer.
Wiring diagrams 12•51 12 Diagram 27: Instrument interface control.
12•52 Wiring diagrams Diagram 28: Cruise control.
Wiring diagrams 12•53 12 Diagram 29: ABS with traction control.
12•54 Wiring diagrams Diagram 30: Adaptive damping system.
Wiring diagrams 12•55 12 Diagram 31: Heated seats and driver’s seat electric adjustment.
12•56 Wiring diagrams Diagram 32: Driver and passenger air bags.
Wiring diagrams 12•57 12 Diagram 33: Radio/cassette (with amplifier).
12•58 Wiring diagrams Diagram 34: Radio/cassette and CD player (with subwoofer).
Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself.
REF•2 Spline key set Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Compression testing gauge Clutch plate alignment set Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool Piston ring removal/installation to.
REF•3 M Impact screwdriver M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see illustrations) M Dial gauge (see illustration) M Universal electrical multi-meter M Cylinder compression gauge (see illustration).
REF•4 Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.
Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources; for example, Ford garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows.
REF•6 Fault Finding Engine 1 m m Engine backfires m m Engine difficult to start when cold m m Engine difficult to start when hot m m Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start m m Engine hesita.
REF•7 Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start m m Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5). m m Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5). m m Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapter 5). m m Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range m m Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1). m m Fuel pump faulty or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4). m m Fuel tank vent blocked or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4). m m Vacuum leak at the inlet manifold or associated hoses (Chap- ters 1, 4 and 6).
REF•9 Excessive fuel consumption m m Unsympathetic driving style, or adverse conditions. m m Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1). m m Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4, 5 and 6). m m Ignition timing incorrect (Chapters 5 and 6).
6 Automatic transmission REF•10 Fault Finding Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission and its electronic control system, it is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit.
REF•11 Fault Finding 9 Suspension and steering systems Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or binding brakes.
REF•12 Battery will not hold a charge more than a few days m m Battery defective internally (Chapter 5). m m Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter 1). m m Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 5). m m Auxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly-adjusted (Chapter 1).
REF•13 Glossary of T echnical T erms A ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system, usually electronically contr olled, that senses incipient wheel lockup during braking and relieves hydraulic pr essure at wheels that are about to skid. Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the steering wheel (driver’ s side) or the dash or glovebox (passenger side).
REF•14 Glossary of T echnical T erms Catalytic converter A silencer -like device in the exhaust system which converts certain pollutants in the exhaust gases into less harmful substances. Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent endwise movement of cylindrical parts and shafts.
REF•15 Glossary of T echnical T erms G Gap The distance the spark must travel in jumping from the centr e electrode to the side electrode in a spark plug.
REF•16 Glossary of T echnical T erms Rotor In a distributor , the rotating device inside the cap that connects the centre electrode and the outer terminals as it turns, distributing the high voltage from the coil secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
REF•17 Index A A pillar trim - 11•20 ABS - 9•14 Accelerator cable - 4•4 Accelerator pedal - 4•5 Accumulator - 3•9 Acknowledgements - 0•4 Adaptive damping switch - 12•8 Aerial - 12•22.
REF•18 Index E Earth fault - 12•4 Economy/Sport mode switch - 12•7 ECU (Electronic Control Unit) - 6•10 , 6•11 , 6•12 EGR exhaust gas pressure differential sensor - 6•16 EGR system - 6.
REF•19 Index Oil pressure warning light switch - 2A•22 Oil pump - 2A•21 Oil seals - 2A•13, 2A•22, 7A•2, 7B•3, REF•4 Oil separator - 6•19 Open-circuit - 12•4 Overcooling - REF•8 O.
REF•20 Almost ever y car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent ever y aspect of our motoring heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities like the bug-eyed BMW Isetta.
An important point after buying a device Ford Mondeo (1996) (or even before the purchase) is to read its user manual. We should do this for several simple reasons:
If you have not bought Ford Mondeo (1996) yet, this is a good time to familiarize yourself with the basic data on the product. First of all view first pages of the manual, you can find above. You should find there the most important technical data Ford Mondeo (1996) - thus you can check whether the hardware meets your expectations. When delving into next pages of the user manual, Ford Mondeo (1996) you will learn all the available features of the product, as well as information on its operation. The information that you get Ford Mondeo (1996) will certainly help you make a decision on the purchase.
If you already are a holder of Ford Mondeo (1996), but have not read the manual yet, you should do it for the reasons described above. You will learn then if you properly used the available features, and whether you have not made any mistakes, which can shorten the lifetime Ford Mondeo (1996).
However, one of the most important roles played by the user manual is to help in solving problems with Ford Mondeo (1996). Almost always you will find there Troubleshooting, which are the most frequently occurring failures and malfunctions of the device Ford Mondeo (1996) along with tips on how to solve them. Even if you fail to solve the problem, the manual will show you a further procedure – contact to the customer service center or the nearest service center
